The MIJ16 Genseki Selvedge is a 19oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim developed with one goal in mind: maximum texture and character. This is a fabric that embraces irregularity, density, and raw surface expression, pushing the Made in Japan series deeper into heavyweight territory.
At first touch, the denim feels dense, rough, and unmistakably tactile. That reaction is intentional. From yarn choice to weaving tension, every decision behind Genseki was made to highlight texture rather than smoothness.
Why Genseki?
Genseki translates to “raw ore,” a term used to describe unrefined stone in its natural, extracted state. Before ore is smoothed, polished, or processed, it exists with all of its weight, irregularity, and surface variation intact.
That idea defines this fabric. Genseki is not about refinement for refinement’s sake. It’s about preserving raw material character and allowing texture, imperfection, and density to take center stage.
Fabric and Weaving
The MIJ16 is woven using slubby and neppy yarns, producing an intense, irregular surface with visible neps throughout the fabric. These yarns are intentionally uneven, creating bumps, knots, and variation that give the denim its distinctive grain.
To amplify this effect, the fabric is woven at low tension on vintage shuttle looms. Lower tension allows the yarns to relax and shift as the fabric forms, increasing depth and surface movement. The result is a denim with pronounced texture and a lively, organic appearance.
Beneath the indigo warp sits an earthy-toned weft, adding warmth and richness to the overall color. As the denim ages, this underlying tone enhances contrast and gives the fades a deeper, more dimensional look.
Tempi Treatment and Wear
Although the MIJ16 is unsanforized, it undergoes a Tempi treatment to remove shrinkage while preserving the fabric’s raw character. This process stabilizes the denim without flattening the surface or reducing texture, allowing the yarn’s hairiness and roughness to remain intact.
The result is a heavyweight denim that maintains its original feel while eliminating sizing guesswork. Over time, the fabric softens gradually, but the texture never disappears.
Selvedge and Construction Details
The selvedge edge features an indigo–red–indigo micro-busted line. The narrower selvedge width allows the warp color to extend closer to the edge, with a fine red line providing subtle contrast.
As with all MIJ releases, Genseki is finished with a full suite of Made in Japan details:
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100% iron buttons that will rust with wear
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100% copper rivets that will oxidize over time
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Raised belt loops designed to fade
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Japanese sheepskin leather patch featuring the Flower of Carnage logo
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Selvedge button fly
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Peekaboo selvedge coin pocket
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Two-tone stitching
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Chainstitched hem
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Maple leaf embroidery on the back pocket
The MIJ16 Genseki Selvedge is made in Japan from start to finish, from yarn preparation and dyeing to weaving, cutting, and sewing.
Aging and Fade Potential
In terms of fade performance, the MIJ16 stands alongside the most celebrated MIJ releases. Expect high-contrast fades, deep creasing, and dramatic texture evolution over time. For those familiar with the aging behavior of the MIJ10, Genseki offers a similarly intense transformation, with even greater surface complexity.
Release
The MIJ16 Genseki Selvedge releases on February 5th at 11am ET in the following fits: Easy Guy, Strong Guy, Super Guy, True Guy, Weird Guy, and the Heritage Jacket.
Available online and in store exclusively through Naked & Famous Denim Montreal and Naked & Famous Denim NYC.
