First Look: Naked & Famous Denim MIJ5 - Kogare Kakishibu
Here is first look at the details of the highly anticipated Naked & Famous Denim MIJ5, the 5th iteration in the Naked & Famous Denim Made in Japan series dubbed “Kogare Kakishibu”.
Fits
For the first time ever the MIJ series is being offered in multiple fits, the Weird Guy, Super Guy, and Easy Guy are all represented.
Fabric
MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu is an Unsanforized 14.5oz Short Slub Japanese Selvedge Denim with Indigo Dyed Warp and Kakishibu Dyed Weft. Kakishubu dying is a traditional Japanese dye method which utilizes “Kaki” (the Japanese word for persimmon) a small orange fruit that contains a great deal of tannins, making them ideal for natural dyes. This dye method produces an incredible range of orange and brown tones, and for this denim a deep brown dubbed “Kogare” (Japanese for burnt) was used to make up the interior weft yarns. On the surface of the fabric the Kogare color peeks though, giving the denim a warm earthy tone. The fabric has a subtle unevenness due to the use of uneven sized slub yarns and slow weaving techniques. The denim is finished with a distinctive white ear selvedge ID with an orange running stitch embroidery.
Note* While the fabric is Unsanforized the jeans themselves have gone though a Tenpi treatment. This is a soak and dry process that removes the shrinkage from the fabric, while preserving the natural hairiness and textured feel characteristic to Unsanforized denim.
Construction Details
The MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu are put together with design details that alone would be impressive, let alone having them all in one jean.
The buttons feature the text “Naked & Famous Denim” written in Katakana along with a Japanese maple leaf at the center and are made with 100% Iron, both the button itself and the tack. These are designed to rust and age overtime, just like the denim itself, a detail often seen on vintage jeans. It’s not uncommon to find buttons that claim to be made from iron, however it’s common for just the cap to be made of iron (the flat front facing part of the button) and not the entire piece. The buttons are custom made in Japan by a specialty button maker with over 110 years of history.
At the points of strain, the jeans are held together with 100% copper rivets, and feature hidden back pocket rivets. Authentic details you would find on vintage jeans. Like the 100% iron buttons, the 100% copper rivets are designed to oxidize and change color with time, adding to the overall ageing process of these jeans.
You’ll also find some special selvedge placement details throughout including a peek-a-book selvedge coin pocket, selvedge fly, and a micro busted selvedge out seam.
The jeans are stitched with two tone contrast threads on the coin pocket, waist, and belt loops. An understated vintage style construction detail that can easily be missed. The thread is made from a durable cotton wrapped polyester core yarn.
On the back pocket you’ll find the signature red maple leaf embroidery that can only be found on the MIJ series.
The hems are finished using the famed Union Special 43200G, praised for the way that this hem will twist over time creating distinctive “roping” fade pattern.
The leather patch is made from 10oz natural vegetable tanned leather and embossed with the “Flower of Carnage” logo, a Japanese manga inspired rendition of the classic Naked & Famous Denim “Tragic Blond” logo. The artwork was created by famed artist Alvin Lee, who has notably created artwork for some of the biggest franchises in the comic book and video game world.
Availability
The MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu will be available June 21st at select Naked & Famous Denim retailers worldwide.
Canada
Danali - Winnipeg, MB
Over The Rainbow - Toronto, ON
Tate + Yoko - Montreal, QC
England
Germany
Malaysia
Singapore
South Korea
Taiwan
Thailand
USA
American Rag - Los Angeles, CA
Blue Owl Workshop - Seattle, WA
James Dant - Indianapolis, IN
Naked & Famous Denim - New York, NY
Service Menswear - Austin, TX